Fu Fu Ramen – First Dinner in Lyon

(Sunday, March 16, 2025)

After just a few hours in Lyon, I had already managed to annoy a French lady at the supermarket—an accident, of course, but still an initiation of sorts. Wanting to play it safe for dinner, I went for something familiar: ramen. Warm, comforting, and perfect for both my Asian stomach and the crisp night air.

Fu Fu Ramen was tucked away at the end of a lively alley, almost hidden. I had to double-check my Google maps to be sure I was in the right place, but then, there it was—a cozy little ramen shop. The moment I stepped in, I was met with a synchronized burst of Japanese greetings from the four staff behind the counter. None of them were Asian, but they shouted orders to each other in Japanese with such ease that it made me smile. Strangely, I felt welcomed.

I ordered the classic Chashumen—Bol de bouillon avec des nouilles, pousses de bambou, soja, oeuf, algues, confit de porc et poitrine de porc caramélisée (a bowl of rich broth, noodles, bamboo shoots, soy, egg, seaweed, pork confit, and caramelized pork belly). And, of course, some gyoza on the side.

The first sip of broth was heaven. Deep, savory, soul-warming. Then came the pork belly—meltingly tender, full of flavor. I rarely order pork ramen back home in Chicago, but tonight, I might have consumed more pork in one sitting than I ever have before.

Midway through my meal, I glanced up and did a double take. Sitting next to me was a blond-haired Frenchman who looked exactly like my ex from five years ago, accompanied by his French wife and child. Lyon, it seems, had a sense of humor.

By the end of the meal, I mustered up my best French to chat with the server, who turned out to be incredibly kind. A small but rewarding moment to wrap up my first night in Lyon.